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Via ferrata course - Rock climbing and mountaineering in the Dolomites Alps Italy
Via ferrata course in the Brenta Dolomites Italy
The program includes one day rock climbing and three days practise on the via ferratas "Bocchette del Brenta" in the Dolomites Mountains of Italian Alps. Accommodation in Mountain Lodge (HB) is included in the price.
|Day||Program of advanced via ferrata course in the Brenta Dolomites|
|1st||Meeting point: in your hotel at Lake Garda or in San Lorenzo in Banale or to be agreed upon -
Ascent to Rifugio Agostini through the Ambiez valley (duration 5 hrs.). We have the possibility to hire a taxi
jeep (Cost 20 Euro per person) to the Rifugio Cacciatore (good pastasciutta), from there we reach Rifugio
Agostini in 1,5 hrs. by foot
In the afternoon we try our via ferrata equipment, we practise belaying und learn some knots with the rope and set our crampons in order not to lose time the following days on the difficult via ferrata.
- 1st overnight stay in Mountain Lodge Agostini in the Brenta Dolomites -
|2nd||Departure from the Rifugio at 08.30 a.m. to a small rock climbing wall near the Lodge (Ascent
10 min.). Here we practise the rock climbing technique on easy routes with top rope system. The mountain guide
belays you from the ground and he can see and correct your rock climbing technique and foot position. We also try
abseiling and belaying a partner in case of difficulty on a via ferrata.
In the afternoon we reach in ca. 30 minutes a small glacier named Vedretta d' Ambiez for learn the correct use of crampons and how you have to belay a partner in a glacier area. In the Brenta Dolomites this would not be necessary but is indispensable in other via ferrata areas (es. Marmolada Dolomites).
The experience of this day is very important for the continuation of our via ferrata course.
- 2nd. overnight stay in Mountain Lodge Agostini in the Brenta Dolomites -
|3rd||From the mountain lodge we ascent in 45 minutes to the beginning of "Via ferrata Castiglioni".
The vertical high ladders improve our body resistance on a via ferrata until we reach the Bocchetta dei due denti
Downhill we reach the Rifugio XXII Apostoli right in time for lunch and later up to Bocchetta dei camosci (2nd pass). Short descent on the Vedretta dei Camosci where we cross with crampons and later on up on "Sentiero dell' Ideale" following an easy via ferrata to the Bocca d' Ambiez (3rd pass - the highest in the Brenta Dolomites). From the Bocca down on the Vedretta d' Ambiez (wear the crampons again) until the Mountain Lodge Agostini. Duration of this fantastic via ferrata round trip (the best in the Brenta Dolomites) is ca. 6/7 hrs. walk.
- 3rd overnight stay in Mountain Lodge Agostini in the Brenta Dolomites -
|4th||Starting early from Rifugio Agostini at 7.30 because we have a long day ahead of us. We ascent the with crampons to the Vedretta d' Ambiez to reach the "Via ferrata Brentari" in ca. 45 minutes which is leading us to the gigantic wall of Cima Tosa (the highest Top of the Brenta Dolomites). Downhill towards Rifugio Pedrotti alla Tosa but we are not going to reach it as it would make our daily trip too long. In spite we follow the Sentiero Palmieri towards Rifugio Agostini. We collect our remaining belongings and start our descent through Val d' Ambiez until we reach San Lorenzo in Banale. The duration of entire route can be up to 8 or 9 hrs. In case this should be too much for you, we suggest to spend an additional night in the mountain lodge and descent more confortable the following day.|
|Dates of via ferrata course in the Brenta Dolomites: see our
calendar - and on
No. of participants: 3/5 - Price per person: EUR 560,00
NB: Three half boards (bed, breakfast and dinner) in the Mountain Lodge Agostini are included in the price.
NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE: Lunch - beverages - jeep taxi (20 Euro per person)
|What to bring:||rucksack - pools - water bottle - light windcheater - trekking boots (suitable to put on the crampons) - via ferrata-gloves - hat/cap - sunglasses - suncream.|
|helmet, harness, via ferrata-set, crampons, rope, carabiners, etc., will be provided by the mountain guide and is included in the price. Each participant must bring his own personal backpack which must be big enough to carry your personal belongings as well as the the tecnical equipment which is described above: we recommend a backpack with a capacity of 45/50 litres.|
|Reservation:||The reservation should be made by e-mail at least 30 days prior to the start of the course to email@example.com. A deposit payment should made in the amount of EUR 250,00 and the balance must be paid on the first day of the via ferrata course, before the start of the trip.|
Via ferrata base course at Lake Garda Dolomites Alps Italy
Via ferrata base course at Lake Garda Dolomites Italy
The program includes one day rock climbing and two days practise on the via ferratas around Lake Garda. Accommodation in Hotel (B&B) is included in the price.
|Day||Program of via ferrata course at Lake Garda|
|1st||Meeting point: parking lot at highway exit ROVERETO SUD at 09.00 a.m. or in your hotel -
lesson in suitable climbing crag; we teach different climbing techniques for example: chimney, cracks, slabs;
different knots, belaying, rope and via ferrata set techniques, abseiling. The experience of this day is very
important for the performance of our via ferrata course.
- Overnight stay in a hotel in Arco or near Lake Garda -
|2nd||Departure from the hotel at 08.30 a.m. - Via ferrata "Colodri" Arco (easy) and other "Rio
Sallagoni" (difficult) to Castel Drena, two short routes short but significant for the didactics: a short and
easy via ferrata for warming up and exercising the use of the via ferrata set and afterwards a difficult trip
to improve your technique. The total duration of the day is about six hours.
- Overnight stay in a hotel in Arco or near Lake Garda -
|3rd||Departure from the hotel at 08.30 a.m. - Climbing on via ferrata "F. Susatti" on Cima Capi
and following the route "Folletti". It is a ring-route on equipped trails easy and very panoramic (is directly
above Lake Garda) duration of 5/6 hours. Our fantastic via ferrata round trip of the day is like a examination
for the participants and a fun beginning of via ferratas in alpine enviroment.
- Overnight stay in a hotel in Arco or near Lake Garda -
|Dates of via ferrata course at Lake Garda: see our
calendar - and on request
No. of participants: 3/5 - Price per person: EUR 390,00 NB: Three nights with breakfast (BB) in hotel are included in the price. For participants coming from far away it is possible to spend the first night in the hotel the day before the start of the course. Supplement for single room 35,00 Euro. Supplement for high season EUR 15,00 (due to variable hotel accommodation rates).
|What to bring:||rucksack - water - sandwich - light windcheater - preferably
trekking boots - via ferrata-gloves - hat/cap - sunglasses - suncream.
|helmet, harness, via ferrata-set, climbing shoes (only 1st day), rope, carabiners, etc., will be provided by the mountain guide and is included in the price.|
|Reservation:||The reservation should be made by e-mail at least 20 days prior to the start of the course to firstname.lastname@example.org. A deposit payment should made in the amount of EUR 150,00 and the balance must be paid on the first day of the via ferrata course before we start the trip.|
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Ferrata Western crest of Marmolada Trentino Dolomites Alps Italy
Dolomites Alps Italy, guided via ferrata on the Western crest of Marmolada Top of Penia (3.343 m) suggested by Mountaineering climbing School Guides Trentino Dolomites Italy
Via Ferrata Bocchette in the Brenta Dolomites Alps Italy Europe
Proposal of Mountaineering Alpine School Arco Lake Garda Trentino for the crossing from North to South of Brenta Dolomites in Italy, from lodge to lodge, on the via ferrata Bocchette
A via ferrata (Italian for "iron road". Plural vie ferrate. In German, Klettersteig) is a mountain route which is equipped with fixed cables, stemples, ladders, and bridges. The use of these allows otherwise isolated routes to be joined to create longer routes which are accessible to people with a wide range of climbing abilities. Walkers and climbers can follow via ferratas without needing to use their own ropes and belays, and without the risks associated with unprotected scrambling and climbing. They are found in a number of European countries, and a few places in the United States, Canada and Malaysia. The first via ferratas were built in the Dolomites mountain region of Italy during the First World War, to aid the movement of mountain infantry. The world's highest via ferrata, at 3.800 metres, is located at Mount Kinabalu in the state of Sabah, Malaysia
Via ferrata in the Dolomites
Via ferrata are graded according to their difficulty. Grade one usually involves nothing more than an
assisted walk. Grade five demands serious climbing skills. Volume I of "Via Ferratas of the Italian
Dolomites" by J Smith and G Fletcher covers the North, Central and Eastern regions.
For any route, other than the easiest, climbers are advised to wear special via ferrata self-belay kit which is designed to cope with the particular requirements of the iron ways.
The Dolomites are divided into two main regions. To the west are the smaller Brenta Dolomites. This has many excellent via ferrata, particularly around the town of Madonna di Campiglio. The famous Sentiero Bocchette Alte and the Via delle Bocchette Centrali can both be reached by lifts from Madonna di Campiglio. The greater part of the Dolomites, and most of the via ferrata, lie to the east, between the A22/E45 and A23/E55 roads. The dominant geographical feature of this area is the Sella Massif and the main town is Cortina D'Ampezzo.
Probably the most unusual via ferrata in the eastern part of the Dolomites is VF Lagazuoi Tunnels. Fighting for control of Mount Lagazuoi in WW I, Austrian and Italian troops built a series of tunnels through the mountains. The aim of each side was to tunnel close to the enemy and detonate explosives to destroy their fortifications. Some of the tunnels have been restored, with a via ferrata following the route of one of these. It is now possible to descend into the mountain by following the VF Lagazuoi Tunnels route.
The most popular via ferrata in the Dolomites is believed to be VF Ivano Dibona, involving a traverse of the main Monte Cristallo ridge. The complete route takes about eight hours. The day starts at the base of the Rio Gere lift system with a ride on two lifts to reach the Lorenzi Refugio at 2950 metres. The traverse starts at this point, trends mostly downhill, and passes several WW I fortifications.
The VF Bolver-Lugli (constructed in 1970 by mountain guides from San Martino di Castrozza) takes climbers of the Cimon della Pala as far as a bivouac at 3,005 metres. Once there, only the "Variation for the Summit" remains, to attain the summit itself at a height of 3,184 metres.
Equipment for via ferrata
While via ferrata is similar to rock climbing the major difference is that the fall
factor, which in climbing can never by definition exceed 2, can in via ferrata be much higher. These high
factors are possible because the length of rope between harness and carabiner is short and fixed, while the
distance the climber can fall depends on the gaps between anchor points for the safety cable. The human body,
as well as most items of climbing equipment, cannot withstand the forces associated with some of these higher
fall factors and so a number of devices have been developed to act as shock absorbers or progressive brakes.
Their function is to dissipate the energy of the fall while at the same time keeping the climber and
However, in spite of the perception of via ferrata as being more secure and safe than rock climbing, people are more likely to injure themselves if they do fall, partly because of these elevated fall factors and partly because there are often rungs, steps, pigtails, etc on which to land.
Those who embark on a via ferrata are advised to use normal climbing equipment (climbing harness, helmet, appropriate shoes etc), in addition to the necessary via ferrata kit which consists of two short lengths of rope or webbing linked in Y formation to the harness by means of a braking device, with a carabiner at the end of each line. This arrangement allows the user to always have one of their safety lines attached to the safety cable. It should be noted that commercially available braking devices are normally intended for adults, and that if children are taken on a via ferrata, they must have braking devices appropriate to their weight in addition to full body harnesses.
There are two types of brake: the first uses a metal plate or moulding through which a rope is passed providing a high degree of resistance; the second employs stitching which progressively tears in case of a fall, providing a gradual slow down. Each of these has their own advantages. A metal plate brake allows the climber to re-thread the rope in case of a fall allowing them to have some degree of protection while completing the climb. With a stitch brake, on the other hand, the system may be so lengthened after a fall as to be unusable, but it is easy to verify that the device has been deployed. This is important because all these devices are certified for only one fall, after which they must be replaced. Organisations lending or hiring such devices must therefore be able to guarantee that they are not re-used after such an incident.
Another advantage of the stitch brake is that the braking system cannot easily be disabled by an inexperienced climber, as can inadvertently occur with friction plate systems. In the latter, a length of the rope which passes through the plate hangs loosely from the plate while in use, so as to be available to be drawn through the plate if high fall forces occur. This "tail" serves no other purpose and tends to get in the climbers way; commercially-made lanyards employ various methods to attach the tail to the harness and/or hold it in a compact bundle, which can easily be pulled apart during deployment. If, however, the climber ties a knot in the tail, wraps it tightly around the torso and clips it in place with a carabiner, or makes any other adjustment which will impede its ability to pull through the plate under load, excessive forces will not be dissipated and an unsafe situation is created.
Carabiners are also made specially for via ferrata, their design typically allowing a larger-than-normal opening and having a spring locking mechanism that can be opened with one hand. They are also strong enough to withstand high fall factors. Such carabiners are marked with a K in a circle, the K standing for Klettersteige, the German term for via ferrata. These are the only types of carabiner that should be used on the end of the safety lines. Certain limitations of via ferrata carabiners should be kept in mind. Many such carabiners are not true locking carabiners, as employed in roped climbing and caving systems, and should not be used as such. A typical design uses a spring-loaded sleeve on the carabiner gate. While the gate is closed, the sleeve is held in place over the gate opening by its spring; to unlock and open the gate, the sleeve slides directly down the gate shaft away from the opening. The ease of opening these devices makes them suitable for via climbing, with its constant clipping and unclipping, but not for applications where more secure locking mechanisms (automatic or manual) are called for. In addition, locking sleeves on via ferrata carabiners have been known to hang up in the gate opening and prevent the gate from closing properly. Care must be taken to maintain (clean and lubricate) and/or replace via carabiners as needed to avoid this potentially unsafe situation.